A: Furniture, appliances (in some cases), window coverings, and hanging pictures should be removed from the work area. It’s also recommended that shelving and mantles be cleared of breakables, as vibrations from machinery or the putting up and taking down of plastic can cause items to fall. We do not remove furniture, but we can recommend professional movers and storage solutions to aid you in this process.
A: If you plan to have new Baseboards/Quarter Round installed, then it is recommended that the existing mouldings be removed before sanding takes place. If not, it is not always necessary to remove the existing mouldings.
A: Proper protection and touch up of the baseboards and quarter rounds are usually the homeowner’s responsibility. If you would like us to touch them up for you, we would be happy to discuss your options.
A: This depends on a few things. The scope of your project is usually the primary factor. If your entire home’s hardwood floors are to be refinished—including the connecting hallways and stairs—it may be practical to schedule time away from home during the project timeframe. On the other hand, if your project is limited only to select areas of your home, remaining in your home may be possible. Sensitivity to your choice of finish or stain may also influence your decision.
A: Firstly, the grade of a wood floor does not determine its quality. “Grade” refers to the appearance of the planks. Here are the most common grades of wood:
A: Controlling the humidity in your home is extremely important in maintaining your wood floors. In the summer, excess humidity can cause your wood floors to swell. In the winter, the dryness can make the wood shrink, creating gaps between the floor boards.
Relative humidity levels should be a consistent 40%-50% throughout the year. To keep humidity in check during the summer, use your air conditioning or dehumidifier to maintain proper humidity levels. In the winter, use a humidifier to increase humidity to prevent the wood from shrinking.
You can easily (and inexpensively) check the humidity levels in your home with a hygrometer. You can find one at many retailers for $10-$20. They are a fantastic investment to keep your floors in great shape.
A: Sanders that are not hooked up to electricity properly are highly dangerous. To ensure safety, our main wood-floor sander requires a 220 volt (40 AMP) connection. Our crews are comprised of professionals who know the proper techniques and use the suitable equipment needed to ensure a safe connection. In some cases, electricians need to be brought in to perform a proper hookup if one is not already available.
A: Stains are used primarily to provide color for your floor and also provide a small amount of protection. Floor finish differs from stain because it contains protective resins and imparts only minimal color to the floor. It is not always necessary to apply stain to a floor, but applying finish is always required.
A: Yes. Professional sanding may result in a loss of 1/32 of an inch; therefore, with a 2mm veneer, you can sand 1-2 times. Refinishing floors will void the wear warranty.
A: We do not do isolated repairs that involve spot sanding and staining. We can only the entire floor area (or room) is completely refinished. If the wood is pre-finished and you have the exact same boards left over or you can supply the exact match on your own then we can take the damaged boards out and put new ones in. Please be aware min. charges will apply no matter how small the repair work is.
A: The key thing to remember when cleaning hardwood floors is to be gentle. Hardwood floors are more delicate than vinyl or ceramic floors, so they need less abrasive cleaning methods. Here are the dos and don’ts of hardwood-floor cleaning:
What To Avoid
What To Use